The documentation focuses on the art of Toda embroidery and attempts to incorporate Toda embroidery and traditional fabric into a ready-to-wear clothing line. This is done by understanding the embroidery technique plus additional data from market research,  wardrobe study, client study, and trend research, which is feasible for the upcoming season. This project also focuses on providing the people of this community with an opportunity to earn and, at the same time, showcase their work through the project.

K Lavanya Nair1, Sneha B1, Prof. Georgy Sunny2

1Student B.Tech, Fashion Technology, Vellore Institute of Technology, Chennai

2Assistant Professor, Vellore Institute of Technology, Chennai

Volume 6, Number 2, 2022 I Full-Text PDF

DOI: https://doi.org/10.21659/cjad.62.v6n200

Abstract

The documentation focuses on the art of Toda embroidery. This document can be divided into an initial ethnographic study and collection development. The first part of the paper starts with understanding the research methodology, followed by in-depth research on Tamil Nadu, its cultures, festivals, and art forms. It moves towards studying Nilgiri and the several tribes that reside within it. Among the different tribes living in Ootacamund and the surrounding areas of the Nilgiri hills, the focus is on the Toda tribes, their life, and their embroidery. The second half of the document, collection development, attempts to incorporate Toda embroidery and traditional fabric into a ready-to-wear clothing line. This is done by understanding the embroidery technique plus additional data from market research,  wardrobe study, client study, and trend research, which is feasible for the upcoming season. This project also focuses on providing the people of this community with an opportunity to earn and, at the same time, showcase their work through the project.

Keywords: Nilgiri, Tribes of Nilgiri, Toda tribes, Toda embroidery

Introduction

India is a land of diverse cultures and art forms. Several of these historical art forms are being forgotten or losing value with time as the years pass. One such art is the Toda embroidery done by the Toda Tribes of the Nilgiris. Todas are a pre-Dravidian tribal community residing in the hilly regions of Nilgiri, Tamil Nadu, and especially around Ootacamund. There are about 2000 of these people now. They have their different customs, rituals, and language with no script. Todas are widely known because of their embroidery skills. The Toda embroidery done on their traditional garment is the identification factor for these tribes. It is a highly delicate and sophisticated embroidery done using wool on loosely-woven cotton fabric. The fabric structure is so as the embroidery technique involves counting of threads. The embroidery motifs are inspired by nature and their livelihood. These tribes are spread over the Nilgiri ranges in several settlements, and women of all these settlements know the embroidery, as the men focus6 on jobs for the daily economy.

Research Methodology

This craft documentation and collection development was done based on initial online research and consequent field visits to the settlements of the Toda tribal community. The information leading to the completion of the document was collected through field visits, one-on-one interactions with the community members, and a comparison of these with other secondary or tertiary resources. Besides the ethnographic study, detailed research on the current trends and market research was done. With this data and the help of the local Toda artisans, we have created the definitive collection incorporating Toda embroidery.

Tamil Nadu

The state of Tamil Nadu is located in the southern part of India. The Indian Ocean bounds this state to the east and south and by the states of Andhra Pradesh to the north, Kerala to the west, and Karnataka to the northwest. It is known for its distinguished intricate historic style temple. Chennai is the capital city of Tamil Nadu, located in the northernmost area of Tamil Nadu[1].

Geography And Climate:

The geography of this state can be broadly classified as the eastern coast, which comprises the flatlands/plains region, and the hilly region in the west. The overall climate of Tamil Nadu can be stated as tropical, i.e., with an average monthly temperature of about 18C. The coldest months are January and December, while May and June are the year’s hottest months and rainy days fall between October and December[1].

Culture and Festivals:

Tamil Nadu is a land filled with various traditions, cultures, festivals, and rituals. All religious, seasonal, and harvest festivals are celebrated with a lot of enthusiasm all over the state. Thai Pongal is one of the famous harvest festivals celebrated for four days (13th-16th) of January, and during Pongal, Jalikattu are other notable festivals in Tamil Nadu along with Diwali, KarthigaiDeepam celebrated in Kartik months, and Chitirai[1]. ACCESS THE FULL-TEXT PDF>>